Bravo I FS Performance Update

The Bravo I FS propeller features Mercury's patented Performance Vent System (PVS).
The Bravo I FS propeller features Mercury’s patented Performance Vent System (PVS).

I just received this fantastic video from professional Musky angler Jim Saric – the Musky Hunter.  My friend Steve Miller followed up with Jim a year after first loaning him a 22″ Bravo I FS for his Verado Pro 250 powered Ranger 620VS. We could not have asked for better testimonial. Others have shared similar results with the FS in a variety of outboard applications, including bass, flats, cat flats, bay boats, offshore center consoles as well as sterndrive deck boats and vee bottoms under medium to heavy load. We’ve recently  added 20″ and 21″ pitch sizes and the patented Mercury Performance Vent System (PVS) across the Bravo I FS prop line.

Video courtesy of Jim Saric – The Musky Hunter Television Show.

Good stuff, Jim. Enjoy the prop!









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104 thoughts on “Bravo I FS Performance Update”

    1. Chris,
      Stay with either the Lab Bravo I 4 blade or the new Bravo I FS. The Eco has its place – but with your style of boat you would have to step down too low in pitch to generate the necessary rpm for your motors.

  1. Scott,

    I am currently running a Powertech OFX 3 23 on a 2300 Pathfinder W/F300 Yammah (step hull). I’m getting about 5700 RPM at WOT with a medium load. I am not getting much bow lift out of the setup. What prop would you recommend?

    1. Hank,
      You don’t want to create too much bow lift. You need to be riding on the step(s) to get the maximum performance out of the hull. The Bravo I FS should work nicely on your boat as it provides lift at both the bow and stern. Consider the 24″ pitch Bravo I FS for similar rpm to your 3 blade.

      1. Scott, Have 23 hps with 250 SHO currently running Bravo I XS 23P 5850 RPM. would like the fs can i turn 24 or do i need 23 under stand 23 is 22 p plus cup is 24 fs have enough cup for bow lift this boat running 64 have seen 65 mph with great bow lift runs behind step high.

        1. J.W.
          Typically there’s a 150 rpm drop going from the 23 XS to the 24 FS. The shorter barrel on the Bravo I FS and XS offers most of the bow lift and for your Pathfinder, the 24″ pitch should offer enough lift. Calculating the drop of 150 rpm and running a 24″ pitch you could see just 1 mph increase. The boat seems to be running good with the 23″ pitch but in the end – it’s your chose.
          Have fun,

      2. Scott,

        I decided to give the Bravo FS 23 a try… With the Bravo I am able to run the motor about 1.5 inches higher but I cant seem to get the same bow lift that I was getting out of the OFX3 3 Blade, hence I loose about 1.5-2mph on the top end. Do you think that the Rev 4 would be worth a try? If so what size do you think I can turn?


        1. Hank,
          Typically a 3 blade offers the greatest amount of bow lift and in some cases, faster top speed with a light load. The 4 blade is often better with heavy loads. Switching to the Rev 4 probably won’t result in increased speed. What happened with your engine rpm when you raised the motor 1.5″? Did the engine pick up enough rpm where you could run a taller pitch Bravo I FS? Running a 25″ pitch would drop engine speed 300 rpm from where you’re currently at.

  2. I have a 2013 Ranger Z520C with 2013 Mercury 250 Pro XS. At present, I have a 25 Fury and getting good performance with WOT of about 73 MPH with a heavy load. I want a four blade back-up prop and leaning towards a 26 Bravo I XS. Is this a good selection or is a different pitch or another prop altogether a better option. Thanks

    1. Ron,
      Good idea regarding the backup prop. Thanks for considering the Bravo I XS. Instead of the 26” pitch – go with the 27” (part # 831914L80). The Furys’ run high in pitch and Bravo I XS runs low in pitch (when compared with the rest of Mercury propellers). The Bravo I XS will enable you to enhance engine height by ½” to ¾” compared to typical engine heights needed for running the Fury. It is at elevated engine heights where the Bravo I XS really shines.
      Have fun,

  3. Scott,
    I have a year 2000 2200v pathfinder that i just repowered with a 225 four stroke sho. The boat ran 60-63 with the old 225 2-stock at 5300 rpms with a 25 pitch tempest. Know the boat with the new motor mounted 2″ higher in the 3rd hole vs 1st hole from the top witch put the center of the prop 2″ below the bottom of the boat when level. Now with the same tempest 25 it will run 66 at 5700rpm with no load and 60 at 5400-5500 with a normal load. The boat loaded does not have the bow lift. Would a Bravo 1 fs be a good prop to get me more bow lift ,speed, with the load. fyi load= ice crest at 70lbs front of the center console and 30 more gallon of fuel + ice crest in rear. I think the motor is to high now because its sliping alot just at back over get up on plan. I would like the motor to turn 6000 rpm. Witch mercury prop/pitch do you recommend. Thanks for the help.

    1. Brian,
      I’d like to see you run a Bravo I FS but I’d rather see you focus on lowering the engine first. When measuring from the center of prop shaft to the bottom of the boat; The typical measurement for a 60 mph boat can be 4.75″ to 5.25″. A 70 mph boat can measure 3.5″ to 4″ and, when working toward 80 mph – we see measurements in the 2.25″ to 2.75″ range. Mounting a Bravo I FS at the current height will help reduce slip but I don’t think you’ll realize any performance enhancements until the engine is lowered to an appropriate height. When you dial-in your engine height, provide me as a benchmark; WOT RPM and speed with the 25″ pitch Tempest.


      1. Scott thanks for the info. I will work to get the motor height back down one or two holes. I re-measured and with boat and motor level I’m at 2 3/4″ not 2″.

      2. Scott,
        Here is my benchmark with a different prop. 23″ tempest 63to64 @5700rpm. lowered 1 hole. 3.5 below. It bites alot better picked up 2mph at cuising speeds. 30.5@3000, 35.5@3500 42@4000. boat test weight approx. 2850lbs. my slip is 10-11% wot. thats really good I think. I dont no it i need to go down 1 more hole or not. would like to turn more rpm but like the speed im getting. hole shot is just ok. bravo fs might help.

        1. Brian,
          Thanks for getting back to us with your performance numbers. You may have tried this but, if not – consider taking one of the vent fittings completely out. The Tempest could shorten the hole shot with the increased engine exhaust ventilating water around the propeller. If the Tempest performance doesn’t improve, a switch to the 23″ pitch Bravo I FS would be worth a try. It provides a better hole shot and 150 additional rpm – taking the engine operating speed to 5850 rpm. I can’t say you’ll pick up speed under a light load, but you will notice an improved ride and enhanced speeds under heavy loads.

  4. Scott,
    I am beginning the process of trying to find the best prop for my 20 ft. 94 Hewes Light Tackle. It is powered with a 97 200 Mariner Magnum. In my research it seams that the Bravo 1 XS would be the best choice. Do you agree with this or have other options and what pitch would you start with? Thanks Scott.

    1. Hi Mike. Scott is out of the office supporting an event over the weekend. He will reply to your question upon his return next week.

  5. Scott, we notice while repairing the Bravo 1’s that some new props out of the box only measure 14 3/4″. And these were before the OC’s came out. Is there any determining part numbers or reason some are 15 1/4″ and some are 14 3/4″?

    1. Hi Louis. Scott is out of the office supporting an event this weekend. He will respond to your question upon his return.

    2. Louis,
      The Bravo I style props are castings – not CNC machined – so the diameter can very slightly (due to variances in the casting process). The Bravo I has many variations; standard Bravo I, FS, OC, XC, XS and Lab Finished offering between 14.75” and 15.3” diameters.

  6. I’m trying to determine if a 21P Bravo I FS would be a good choice for my 2014 Ranger Z118C with Mercury 150 HP, 4 Stroke? I’m presently running a 21P Trophy Plus w/exhaust seal in place, and the hole shot is slower than it seems it should be. I’ve also had dismal results with a 21P Tempest Plus. I experimented with the PVS plugs on both props with no improvement.

      1. I’ll get those numbers for you as soon as the rain slows down. Everything is at flood stage around here and too much junk floating in the water to chance a high speed run. Thanks for taking the time to respond.

      2. I finally got some more information today, I spoke to you on the phone several weeks or a month ago after Roger Rose suggested I contact you, but I , misplaced the email address that you gave me.

        2015 Ranger Z118C
        Mercury 150 HP, 4 Stroke SN#2B041203
        Pad to prop centerline: 3.5″ and tested at 2.5″ also with same results.
        23P Trophy Plus with exhaust seal ring installed and 2 vents open, 2 closed.
        3900 RPM when bow broke over on plane, 6 seconds or more to plane
        5840 RPM max, trimmed as much as possible. Starting to get torque in the steering so I trimmed down a bit.
        57.1 MPH top speed no matter how I set the jackplate or trim.
        Horrible time to plane, bow rises, then finally breaks over flat after 5 – 7 seconds of struggling.
        I really want to get a much better hole shot, that’s my primary goal. I fish the Mississippi River and it is shallow in much of the best fishing areas. Average amount of tackle and 25 gallons of fuel at time of test runs. Two people 300 LB. at most in weight of people. Would a Bravo 1, FS do any better on planing or is this the best I can get? I tried a 23P Tempest Plus really this year and it was worse so I sold that prop.

        1. Steven,
          Sorry to hear about the performance issues. I appreciate the detailed information. The Bravo I FS is a great option. The 24” pitch keeps the rpm similar to the Trophy. The larger blade area of the Bravo I will allow for increased engine height. The increased height also offers better planing. Keep us in the loop regarding your performance.

          1. Any suggestions on what to start with on the PVS vents? Number open, number blocked, etc.? How about engine height, up 1/2″ or 3/4″? I know it’s a play around thing but any hints would maybe cut down the time to tweak things. Thanks so much for your help on this, Roger Rose said you were the man to contact.

          2. Steven,
            Thanks for clarifying the pitch of the Trophy as 21” and that your main performance goal is improved planing; instead of moving up to the 22” pitch stay with a 21” pitch. You’ll have to test but you may require (2) vent fittings taken out for a good hole shot.

  7. scott,

    Has anyone tried a Bravo FS on a skteer sx220 bay with a Yam SHO 250. Currently running a yam pro series 21p, 6000 rpm 59 mph, ran same prop but 23p 5800 rpm 62 mph. Would I go with a 23 in the bravo?

    1. David,
      The Bravo I FS should work great. The 23″ pitch Bravo I FS should offer between 5800 and 6000 rpm, like running a 22″ pitch.

  8. I Bought Crestliner’s New 2200 Intruder, multi species boat. It has a 100 gal livewell in rear. I got the 250 Pro Verdao on a 6in Jackplate. When i got the boat it was on the top hole of the motor bracket. I couldn’t raise or lower the motor on jackplate with porpoising above 4500rpm. I raised motor to middle hole which helped a lot. Went to 4th hole and 4in on jackplate and it rides nice without any weight. 21p Tempest Plus, 55 mph, and 5700rpm
    Fill livewell up and back to porpoising. I’m wondering if the bravo FS prop will help solve that problem. If so, should i go with a 21 or 20p prop. I’m guessing with all the weight in rear of boat the cavitation plate is too low in the water

    1. David,
      We spoke on the phone regarding your set up. I’ll recap our discussion for the rest of the readers. It is amazing how important the role engine height plays regarding planing, ride, handling and top speed performance. Weight is another critical area. The location of various items and how the weight of such items is dispersed throughout the boat can have a major impact on performance. In your case filling your 100 gallon live well adds 800 pounds to the stern. Your idea of running the Bravo I FS to gain stern lift is right on. The 20” pitch is the better choice. it will allow you to turn the engine up to the 6000 rpm range which will maximize your performance. Keep experimenting with engine heights. The Bravo I FS will enable you to run the engine .5” to .75” higher than the 3 blade.

    1. Ioannis,
      The ECO props run tall in pitch so a 19″ ECO should offer rpm similar to a 20″ Rev 4. Comparing the Bravo I FS a 20″ pitch should offer similar rpm to the 19″ Rev 4 and the 21″ pitch should be close to the 19″ pitch ECO.

      1. Has been any bravo fs compared to eco? I meen that in my boat eco 19 turns to 6050, how many rpm should i excpect from barvo 20fs with all the other parameters (height, weight etc) same?

        Thank you!

        1. Ioannis,
          The ECO props run heavy in pitch and the Bravo I FS props run light in pitch. The boat and engine combination have something to do with the rpm differences but, in most cases, the 22″ pitch Bravo I FS offers similar rpm to the 19” pitch ECO. The 20” pitch Bravo I FS (depending on the rpm range of the motor) should increase engine speed by at least 300 rpm over the 19” pitch ECO.

  9. I have a 2006 Velocity 290SC with a 496 HO 1.50 Bravo 1X Dana 1000 tabs and a Hydromotive Q-IV 28 pitch prop. The prop shaft is about 3 inches below the bottom of hull. Top speed is 67 to 68 at 4700 to 4800 rpm. I’m having trouble keeping the boat on plane in 2′ to 3′ choppy offshore conditions. The real scary issue is running back in Sebastian inlet with an out going tide. I’ve tried running with tabs and drive in all different positions and no luck. Last time out I decided to hit the inlet with a little more speed between 30 and 35 gps mph drive all the way down and no tabs. About half way through the slop the prop started slipping and once again it fell off plane. It was suggested by someone very familiar with Velocity boats that I should purchase a Bravo I 28pitch labbed to 27 pitch. Would a Bravo IFS 27 pitch be a good alternative to a labbed 28 BravoI?

    1. Ken,
      The prop slip at WOT is high at 19.6%. This tells me its really going to be high at slower speeds – as you are experiencing. The Lab Finished 27″ pitch would offer increased boat control where the Lab 28″ pitch will offer greater top speed (1.5 mph). I’m a little hesitant recommending the 27″ pitch Bravo I FS due to the FS exhaust barrel length being shorter than the Lab. Any chance your contact has tried the FS?

  10. Scott
    I’ve been talking to Kenny Hohwiesner. He wasn’t familiar with the Bravo IFS. He recommended the labbed 28.. Thank you for the input.
    I will be asking Santa for a labbed Bravo I.


  11. I just purchased a Tracker v20 with a verado 225. It came with a tempest plus 19″ . It is a rocket out of the hole tops out at 52-53 @ 6000 rpms. I’ve seen 6100rpms and 54mph in 2′ chop. no jack plate. Thinking of a jackplate to help with shallow water – performance, I realize it’s not a pad boat or ever going to be fast. Just camo out of a triton 21x with 225. but I would like as much performance as i can get. I just installed a merc monitor so i should get a bit better rpm readings. What would you recomend for a prop? your thought on a jackplate. Cavitation plate is just out of the water at full speed. bow lift is not great, feels like it’s being held back.

    1. Kim,
      Adding a jack plate is great idea. It allows for dialing in the engine’s height for maximized performance in rough or smooth conditions. The feeling of the boat being held or sucked to the water can come from the engine being mounted too low. The cavitation plate should be at least 2.5” to 3.5” above the bottom of the boat. The Bravo I FS 4-blade would be a good choice (with or without) the jack plate. If you forgo the jack plate – plan on raising the engine one hole up from the 3 blade set up. Move up to a 20” pitch Bravo I FS to maintain the 6000 rpms. With the jack plate I’m thinking the 21” Bravo I FS will be your pitch choice.

      1. I know there is some set back in the Verado, what inch jackplate would you recomend? There is about a 6″ overhang behind the v hull to the outside of the transom. I’d like to do it once and right. Thanks for your responce.

        1. Kim,
          Check with the boat manufacturer regarding the hull warranty… need you to make sure you can add a jack plate. Do some homework to what others have used, my guess is 6″.
          Have fun.

          1. Hi thanks for the info. The boat is new 2016 I got the first one in NY So I am the one others will follow! I wish there was another one allready set up. I will call tracker as to adding a jackplate.

  12. I have a 2015 Ranger 621 with a Yamaha F300. The motor has a 1.75 gear ratio, no jack plate – mounting position is the bottom hole, and a Saltwater 2 – 3 blade 21 pitch on it. I can pull 5600 – 5700 rpm with a couple guys and gear/fuel in the boat. I borrowed a Rev 4 -19 pitch and liked the bottom end performance. Looking to increase RPM and overall performance. Looking at a Rev 4 – 20 pitch or a Bravo 1 FS – 21 pitch. Any recommendations would be appreciated..

    1. Mike,
      The Revolution 4 20″ pitch should lower the engine 150 rpm compared to the 19″ pitch. I’m not sure that’s the direction you are looking to go. The 4-blade Bravo I FS offers the opportunity to raise the engine at least one hole compared to the 3-blade engine height (be sure the engine is achieving appropriate water pressure). Raising the engine typically increases the engine speed 100 to 150 rpm which increases overall performance. The Bravo I FS also allows for 1″ pitch increase (to a 22″) while maintaining the same rpm you achieve with the 3-blade. So if you ran a 6″ plate here’s what you could expect running the Bravo I FS. The 22″ pitch B1 FS should offer 5700 to 5800 rpm. The 21″ pitch Bravo I FS would offer 5800 to 5900 rpm. The top speed might be 1 to 1.5 mph faster on the top-end but the 21″ pitch will offer quicker planing and faster throttle response. These attributes are particularly helpful maneuvering big waves. It will carry heavy loads better as well.

  13. I have a glasstream 228 te bay. Suzuki df225. 6in atlas jack. Boat has around 12″ offset transom. It had a 28 bravo1. Only hitting 5400rpm and 50mph. I’m getting a new prop this week. I’m looking at a 26bravo labb finish or a bravo fs. What would you recommend? Boat has a step and pad. How much more stern lift does the labb have over the fs?

    1. Rick,
      Appreciate you running Mercury props. The Bravo I FS will offer increased bow lift over the Bravo I Lab Finished. The FS, with it’s shorter exhaust barrel – settles the stern for increased bow lift. With the 27” pitch Bravo I FS – expect to see engine speed to be 300 RPM over the standard 28” pitch Bravo I.

  14. I have a 2011 glasstream 228te bay. I purchased it used and it has a Suzuki df225. (2.29gear) it had a 28 bravo 1 and I could only get 5400rpms before I lost speed. it goes 50. im getting a new prop this week. im considering the bravo fs or a labbed bravo. how much more stern lift does the labbed bravo have over the fs? I need to pull the bow some more and increase rpms. when I was going across St. Simons sound with 1ft rollers and a 10knot headwind it went to 5400 and 53mph. can you help please? I need to order me a prop this week. thanks
    ps. I will never own another Suzuki. its quiet, but the gear ratio kills it.

  15. Hi Scott,
    I have a Lund 202 Pro V GL with Verado 300 pro. It came with a 19P Enertia. I am being told to run a Bravo FS 20P for improved speed. My biggest concern is holeshot with a full load (4 people and full livewells) and planing at lower speeds. I guide mostly in the spring when the temps are cooler so running WOT is not something I do often. My gut is telling me that I might be better served with the Enertia Eco 19P versus the Bravo FS 20P. Can you give me your opinion?

    1. Dan,
      They’re recommending the 20″ pitch Bravo I FS for a reason; it’s awesome. The FS provides minimal bow rise while planing (big deal with your full load), enables you to stay on on plan at slower speeds, provides excellent mid range fuel economy and offers top-end speed when you need it. Engine height is critical with props. To take full advantage of the Bravo I FS you may need to raise your engine. Check the measurement between the cavitation plate and the bottom of the boat. It should be 2.5” above the boat bottom. Many times, the cavitation plate is only 1” above the boat bottom. This often results with the boat feeling stuck to the water – resulting in a rough ride. The ECO is a great prop for the right application, just not yours.

      1. Thanks Scott!

        If I raise the motor would I go with the 21P Bravo 1 FS? The guys I talked too said they did not change the motor height when switching from the 19 Enertia to the Bravo 1 FS 20P.

        1. Dan,
          Sure. You can run the 20” pitch Bravo I FS at the current height. Any chance you could send me your engine height measurement?

          1. I will……..hopefully I will be picking the boat up at the Sea Ray Tellico plant next week then I will send you the measurements.

  16. Hi Scott,
    The cavitation plate is 1 and 7/8″ above the bottom of the boat. The motor is in the 3rd hole so I can only go up one more hole if needed.
    I will probably try it like it is and get some base line numbers.

    1. Dan,
      Sure. Start out with the current setting. Raising the engine will provide enhanced performance (from planing to a better ride in rough water) along with increased speed. Take a look at the performance data in the FS Miller blog post.

  17. Scott,
    I am not seeing any of the benefits from this prop. I get more bow lift during the (very slow) hole shot, trimming the motor has no effect. My cavitation plate is 1 7/8″ above the bottom of the boat.

    Please tell me what I can do to see the benefit of the Bravo 1 FS prop.

  18. Hi Scott,
    I’m wondering if you can recommend a starting point on a prop. Last year I ran a 620VS with a 250 ProXS and 24P Bravo 1 XS prop. Great all around performance and the boat could hit about 62 fully loaded. This year I have the same motor, but a 620FS. I know the FS hull is a little slower but this boat is having trouble hitting 51 or 52. Have you received any feedback about what props seem to be working well on the FS’s. Top speed is a little more of a priority than hole shot for me as sometimes I have to make long runs and like to be able to go mid 50’s or so at 3/4 throttle to conserve fuel without losing too much fishing time,

    1. Scott,
      The 620FS and 621FS both are have challenges to get the top end performance of the VS series. The hull bottom has changed the consoles are moved forward. The FS will not perform like the VS series. Some things guys have been doing to improve performance is shifting the weight further aft. For example, a jack plate sets the weight of the motor further aft which changes the leverage point. This enhances bow lift. On the prop side, the Bravo I FS or XS are still preferred.

  19. Hello Scott,

    after trying BRAVO 20FS and swinging it @6250-6350 depending on the boat weights i am curious on trying the classic (non lab finished) BRAVO I in 20” that mercury has in its catalogue lately.

    Q1: Have you noticed how many rpm drop exists between the same pitch bravo 1 fs and bravo 1?

    Q2: What difference should we expect on how the boat behaves between these to props?

    Thank you.

    1. Loannis,
      The 20″ pitch Bravo I prop lines only are made at Mercury Racing. There isn’t a standard version of the 20” pitch. To achieve similar rpm, a 23.5″ pitch offered in the Bravo I XS line would be a close rpm match to the standard 22″ pitch Bravo I. If the engine ran on the high side of the engine rpm range – a move up to the 24″ pitch Bravo I FS may be in order. The 24″ pitch FS would offer enhanced fuel economy and top speed. The Bravo I FS offers faster throttle response and additional bow lift. In some cases, the standard prop with its large flare at the end of the barrel lifts the stern too much forcing the bow to drop. You can try to overcome that characteristic by over trimming which scrubs speed and leads to poor fuel economy.

  20. Hi, i have a Reata 190 currently running a Tempest 21p, manual jackplate, the boat seems dialed in, it will run up to just over 6450 rpm at about 55 mph. thinking about a bravo FS to help with bottom end and possibly better cruising speed fuel economy.
    Q1 – will it help with bottom end and cruising speed fuel?
    Q2 – What size, will i need to adjust my jackplate?


    1. Sorry, one more thing to add is that the motor is a Verardo 175, and the exhaust ports in the tempest appear to have about 1/2″ open in each port.

    2. Jay,
      It’s been a busy summer. Since you had submitted your question we had released the new Bravo I LT which I recommend for your application. The FS is a great prop. However, you are looking for enhanced bottom-end and mid-range cruise. I think the LT will address those two needs better than the FS. The Reata layout lends itself to the LT design. The longer barrel supports the forward weight inherent with the Reata. The LT will greatly improve planing, keep the boat on plane at slower speeds (a requirement for wake boarding) and offer good mid-range fuel economy as well. The 22” pitch LT will offer similar rpm to the 21” pitch Tempest. Consider the 22.5″ pitch to bring your engine up into the recommended rpm operating range (5800 – 6400). Run the LT at your current height then raise the motor .5” and see if you get performance improvements. You may end up .75” over the 3-blade height.

  21. Hey Scott
    Hope you can help me out. I’m running a 2011 Ranger 620vs With Mercury 300xs. Running a 23 pitch Bravo 1 Fs serial # 48-831910
    Boat runs 6000 rpm and around 60mph fully loaded that’s playing around with jackplate.
    I’d like to get another 5mph out of boat fully loaded. Can I go down a couple pitches to gain speed?
    Will I lose too much bottom end?
    Would it be better to try a XS prop?
    Thanks Jeff

    1. Jeff,
      It’s going to be challenging to get another 5 mph with a heavy load. Consider if you ran a 24.5″ pitch Bravo I XS (XS has 8 PVS vent holes for added planing). You might see 5800 rpm at 63 mph. Going down in pitch raises engine rpm. You will most likely hit the rev-limiter and reduce speed below 60 mph.

  22. Hey Scott,
    To achieve similar rpm, a 22″ pitch offered in the Bravo I FS line would be a close rpm match to the standard 22″ pitch Bravo Lab finished ??
    Thanks Claude

    1. Claude,
      The 22″ pitch Bravo I FS should offer 200 more rpm when compared to the standard 22″ Bravo I.

  23. Hi scott I have a 2016 ranger 620 fs with a verado pro 250 with a kicker motor I have a 22 inch pitch bravo 1 # 48-831910 motor is mounted up 3 holes cavitaion plate is right at 3in above bottom of boat. iam running 5880 rpms at 55 mph. my problem is I cant get out of the hole I have the motor trim all the way in on take off with a full livewell and 3/4 tank of gas one other person it took me over 15 seconds to get the boat up on plan ive talk to ranger they said the prop was suppose to be a bravo 1 fs prop but why isin’t the # a fs number 48-8m0064450 can you help and have any suggestion I really don’t care about speed I just want the boat to perform better out of the hole. Thank you for your help.

    1. Tom,
      The 48-831910 is the base or casting number for the propeller. We make several variants of the Bravo I; FS, LT, XC, XS, and Lab Finished. Unfortunately, we cannot mark the finished part number on the side of the propeller. The part number is only listed on the propeller carton. If you look down inside the end of the prop barrel where the prop nut is located, you see a stamping on the rim, For example, it will read “FS” if it’s a Bravo I FS. If it is the FS (let me know if it isn’t) then look at lowering the pitch to 20”. With your 620FS and Verado, the Bravo I FS is the fastest prop. However, it appears you’re more interested in the bottom-end so I’ll point you to the Bravo I LT. The LT has a longer tube/barrel which will offer a little better boat control at the slower speeds.

      1. Hi Scott thanks for straightening the prop numbers out for me. I contacted ranger there going to exchange the prop for me they didn’t have any LT in stock so they are going to send a FS in a 20 pitch so I can try that i’ll see how that works out hopefully it will be better than the 22″ pitch I have now again ty for your time.

        1. Hi scott thought I would just let you know I received the fs 20 pitch from ranger prop worked out very well with 2 people 3/4 tank of gas and a full livewell I got out of the hole in 7 seconds run 6100 rpms at 57 mph. I did take out the pvs and installed large hole pvs in all 4 seemed to work better than having all solid plugs in. Any way the 20″ pitch was the way to go for the ranger 620 with the mercury verado pro 250. I gained over 200 rpms and 2 mile faster. Thanks again.

  24. Hi Scott, I recently purchased a 2017 used Blazer Ultimate Bay 675 powered by a 250 SHO. The current prop is a Bravo 1 24 pitch. The prop is in terrible shape and needs to be replaced making it hard for me to determine how this prop performs on the boat. Do you have any recommendations for this set up?

    1. Duane,
      The Bravo I FS is the primary prop for your rig, achieving peak performance from planing, cruising and wide-open throttle. My educated guess is you will hit 65+ mph with the 24″ pitch FS.

      1. Thank you Scott. I decide to try out the Bravo LT Prop 24p. Hole shot is good an top end is about 63 fully loaded. Would the FS give more top end? I seems as the LT lifts the entire boat.

  25. Scott
    I have a new 1875 impact with 150 4-stroke mercury, 9.9 kicker, ulterra bow mount, couple 31 series batteries. I had a tempest 19p on there and hated it. It slipped lots at different speeds unless I continually played with the trim button. Yesterday I installed a bravo 1 FS 20p. The cav plate is 1.75″ above the bottom. Last night with 2 people 450# total and flat as glass conditions it would go 47.2 gps at 5300 rpm. I raised the motor to the bottom hole so now it is 2.5″ up and hope to gain some rpm when I run it today. Can you take some pitch out of this prop if I need more rpms? The motor has about 12 hrs on it so maybe it will loosen up some more? I love how the boat drives with this prop. It lifts the boat like no other prop I’ve had and handles/drives beautifully. Just want it to run 57-5800 empty. Or maybe a Bravo 1 LT 19pitch?

    1. I had my boat out yesterday and it won’t trim out as far as it’s supposed to. I measured the trim range and it moves 12 degrees at most instead of 22. Will get that fixed then this prop may just be perfect without any tweaking

    2. Bill,
      Glad the Bravo I improved your ride and handling. Raising the engine .75” typically increases engine speed by 150 rpm. Hitting 5450 rpm should offer another 1.2 mph. I wouldn’t recommend getting the prop tweaked. After the added rpm gain from raising the motor I wouldn’t change a thing. Most set ups like yours are getting 45 – 46 mph so you’re doing everything right to get the most out of your rig.

  26. I did measure the cav to pad and found I was already at 2.5″. Have to get the trim working properly and I think it will run real close to 50 mph. I did raise the motor to 3.25″ gained rpm but it slowed the boat down. I’m shooting for 56-5800? Is that peak hp?

    1. Bill,
      Two and one-half inches seems to be the sweet spot for engine height. Hopefully, you picked up some rpm when you raised it from 1.75” to 2.5”. If the rpm increased to 5450 at WOT – I’m guessing your speed came in at 48.5 mph. If you went with a low pitch prop like the 19.5″ pitch Bravo I LT, you might see another 75 rpm increase. However, your speed will drop to 47.8 mph. I think you’re there for engine height, prop style and pitch.

    1. Bill,
      That’s fantastic. 50.6 mph with your Lund 1875 Impact and Mercury 150! To assist the rest of the readers; is the AV plate still at 2.5” above boat bottom, i.e. is the motor mounted on the the 4th hole? Again, congratulations. Your hard work really paid off.

  27. Hello Scott,

    I’m purchasing a new Lund 1975 Pro V with the Verado 225 on it, comes with a 19p Tempest but once broken in and motor set at correct height I’m wondering which prop could give me the best overall performance. I’m not a tournament guy and usually only 2 in the boat with mid size loads, maybe 10-12 times a year she is loaded up with 4 people and extra gear but mostly just 2.


  28. I have a 26′ center console, pad vee bottom, 12″ transom setback with a 26″ bracket. Engines are 225 optis and have the prop shafts just below bottom. I have a set of stock 21 Rev 4s as the boat needs stern lift under normal fishing trips offshore, but the hole shot is dismal and midrange economy isn’t great either. With a moderate load, it’ll turn 5650 at 61 mph. I’ve tried all vents open and it ventilated too much, tried with one 3/8″ pvs plug and all others open and it’s a dog to rev up and plane.

    My question is, how much will the FS improve my hole shot over the Rev 4? Do they have enough diameter and cup to run full open vents or will ventilation be too excessive? Then, would I go 22 or 23? Seems like from reading above, a 22 would put me on the Rev limiter at 5750, which I am ok with if hole shot and midrange economy are better. If the 23 keeps me off the limiter, I’d go that route as long as hole shot and midrange economy do not suffer. Your recommendations are appreciated!

    1. Joey,
      Good idea looking at the Bravo I FS for your twin Opti’s. The large 15.25” diameter FS will require all the PVS fittings removed. The 22” pitch will spool up slightly quicker than a set of 23 offering faster planing.

  29. Hello
    I’m running 48-831910,22.5P Bravo 1 on Z7 200 pro xs with 6” atlas
    The holeshot is amazingly great, however I’m only getting 61 mph full tournament load with plenty of bow lift at 5800-5850 rpm , sometimes my rev limiter stutters slightly at 5850
    I would like more speed, would 24 pitch help but still maintaining the holeshot?

    1. Tim,
      Is this an Optimax you are running? If you are hitting the rev limiter on top end you may want to consider stepping up in pitch. Since this is not a regular occurrence, you may consider only stepping up to a 23 or 23.5 in order to maintain your hole shot.


    1. Claude,

      The Bravo I XC is a specially designed prop for the Texas market. They run in very shallow water, so the XC has extra cup built in to maintain performance since we know some of it will get worn away by running through sand and silt. The XC also has the same long barrel as the Bravo LT, which helps improve holeshot in these shallow water conditions.


      1. Hello Nick,
        Thank you for your reply.
        In fact I need a propeller with the cup of the XC and a short barrel like the FS to have bowlift.
        Do you think it is possible to cut the barrel of the XC .(0,5 inch)
        I need, by following sea , a propeller which limit the ventilation when I trim up.


          1. Claude,

            Very nice setup, I think you are dialed in very well. Your slip percentage is very low. Oftentimes, stepping down in pitch to gain RPM does not give you better results.


    1. Nick,
      I do not want to gain RPM,
      I need, by following sea , a propeller which limit the ventilation when I trim up, whit a short barrel to have bowlift.


      1. Claude,

        I still do not think there is a better option for your setup. Adding tip cup will also raise the bow of your boat. The only prop with more tip cup that Mercury Racing produces is the Pro Max, but the lowest pitch is a 22.5.


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